L’Aceto di Joško Sirk a IDENTITA’ GOLOSE
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La mostra e’ stata presentata dal direttore dell’ Istituto per la Cultura Italiana a Vienna. Ha avuto larghi consensi sia dal punto di vista artistico che dell’accoglienza ( Enogastronomica
Quarin Viaggi, la prima Agenzia partner di Piccolo COLLIO per scoprire tutte le bellezze del Collio, in Vespa, in Bicicletta, in pulmino… o come vuoi tu!
Dal sito www.turismofvg.it Pacchetti/Offerte Piccolo Collio Località: Descrizione:
Descrizione: La quota individuale comprende:
- 3 notti solo pernottamento c/o RELAIS LA SUBIDA di Cormons (Case nel bosco con angolo cottura) - 2 cene a quattro portate a scelta tra i seguenti ristoranti (bevande escluse): - TRATTORIA AL CACCIATORE (cucina del territorio) Cormons - RISTORANTE DEVETAK (cucina del territorio carsolino) San Michele del carso - RISTORANTE LE DUNE (specialità pesce) Mariano del Friuli - RISTORANTE SALE & PEPE (cucina del territorio Valli del Natisone) Loc. Stregna – Cividale - visita ai produttori del Piccolo Collio - visita nelle cantine del Piccolo Collio - escursione guidata a piedi nella “Strada delle Vigne Alte” - possibilità di usufruire della “Vespa del Collio” - possibilità di usufruire delle bici “Slow Collio” - possibilità di corsi di cucina La quota individuale non comprende (supplementi): Riduzioni: La quota bambini e terzo letto adulto comprende solo il pernottamento. I pasti saranno regolati in loco a consumo. Periodo di Natale e Capodanno quote su richiesta. Organizzazione tecnica: Quarin Viaggi.
Continuing our journey in Italy’s Northeast, we left Hisa Franko and our new friends Ana and Valter who gifted us with homemade preserves (hand-written labels in Slovenian—I’m clueless) and elderberry syrup. We were on our way to Manzano (chair capital of Italy) and the winery Le Vigne di Zamo. I adore their wines and the owners, Silvano and Brigitte, who invited us to stay in their guest quarters.
We had an appointment with enologist Michele Bean(pronounced bee-AHN) at Davide Feresin’s winery. We tasted Pinot Grigio: extreme, just like Michele—he extracts color and flavor from the grape’s skins (it’s a clone of Pinot Nero, not a white grape) and it looks like rosé and acts like a light red. And a reserve refosco called Nero di Botte—a play on words—barrels and beaten up, with a cartoon of Davide and Michele on the label covered with bruises. We were invited for lunch, prepared by Davide’s mother, but had plans to meet Silvano and Brigitte at Sale e Pepe, a perfect trattoria in the tiny end-of-the-road village of Stregna. We feasted on traditional dishes like buckwheat polenta with ricotta, horseradish and Seuca apples, bean and barley soup, sausage, white polenta, mushrooms and chestnuts, and a tasty dessert called snow in a glass, featuring persimmons. I got the recipe. We spent another evening in the library with Pinot Grigio. Vito insisted on a visit to our favorite grappa distiller, Domenis, where, in spite of the early hour, we sampled La Storica Nera, my favorite grappa, and I bought cartons of what look like cigarette packs containing eight tiny, single-shot vials, a perfect gift (under the airline liquid limit). Bastianich was nearby, and we had to taste with Wayne Young, the winery’s spiritual leader according to owner Joe Bastianich—Friulano and Friulano Plus, Vespa Bianco, all from the latest vintage, tasty but young. Then back to Osvaldo to pick up our prosciutto, boned, divided into three parts, shrink-wrapped for easy transport.
We had a forgettable lunch nearby, then back to the Le Vigne di Zamo for a tour, some barrel tasting (always fun), and shopping with Brigitte for some vegetables for dinner. Cathy and I were excited to buy brovada, salad greens and beautiful squash, and headed back to the kitchen. Brigitte set out a beautiful cheese selection, whipped up a smoked pork and sauerkraut dish, Cathy and I made soup with the squash, roasted in Brigitte’s wood-burning oven. Silvano poured champagne for the chefs, and, at the table, some historic wines, including a very special 1991 Ronco delle Acacie. After-dinner entertainment: a video of the purcitade, a seasonal celebration starring pork, with butchers who dismantle a pig and make it into salumi and fresh meat, an all-day food and wine extravaganza for members of the Longolardi (a blend of Longobardi and lardo) club—you can join online. Cathy was inspired, and wants do a purcitade at Nostrana. Stay tuned to her website for more information. Our plans for the morning were cultural, a quick stop in Aquileia to see the phenomenal mosaics (on the floor for easy viewing, Biblical scenes—Jonah and the whale are a personal favorite) and thenVilla Manin for an interesting Munch show I wanted to see. But floods on the autostrada—all traffic west to Milan was detoured and we were stuck in a long line of trucks and cars—left us little time for culture, and we went straight to Sarmeola di Rubano, the kingdom of Alajmo. Cathy and David hadn’t seen Le Calandre’s new, remodeled dining rooms, we all wanted to taste Massimiliano’s latest creations. And I needed to shop at in.gredienti, the Alajmo’s store. I bought a loaf of Massimliano’s natural mother yeast bread and a few packages of Sarawak pepper, pre-ordered Le Calandre’s extra virgin version of Pandoro, called Pan’olio, for Christmas presents. We were hungry, ready for lunch. Raf had a surprise waiting at our table in the restaurant: my friend Gianni Capovilla, master distiller, who brought me a special bottle of aged (30 years) plum distillate—we would taste after lunch and I could take the rest home. Massimiliano’s menu was a thrill, beginning with raw red shrimp, pomegranate ice and crispy rice cloud, paired with Champagne. Raw Piemontese beef with gold, incense and extra virgin, spaghetti with garlic, extra virgin, chili pepper and oysters, hare with a rich red wine sauce flanked by chestnut puree paired with Barolo Gramolere, hazelnut and coffee gelato with rum ice and milk foam. Raf and sommelier Angelo joined us to taste Gianni’s plum distillate, truly amazing, true to fruit, which seemed to evaporate from our glasses and my bottle. Vito’s van was packed. Unlike other forms of travel, there are no luggage limits. He helped me unload our purchases and gifts—cases of wine, jars of preserves, fresh horseradish, a package of brovada, honey, extra virgin olive oil, grappa, vinegar, lots of books. My kitchen table was completely covered with bounty. I can’t wait to go back. Luoghi e ItinerariLa Subida, Cormòns e vini Collioby Nicola Sprelli, Thursday 13 January 2011 
Appena fuori Cormòns (GO), il ristorante “Al Cacciatore della Subida” rappresenta al meglio lo spirito di queste terre di confine. Vini Collio compresi. Sapori di confine, in un luogo della memoria dove le mille suggestioni che arrivano dalla gastronomia friulano-veneta, slovena e austriaca vengono rielaborate e proposte con raro equilibrio. Interpretandone l’anima, si potrebbe forse dire. Sui rilievi del Collio goriziano, appena fuori Cormòns (GO), il ristorante “Al Cacciatore della Subida” rappresenta al meglio lo spirito di queste terre di confine, da sempre crogiolo di popoli e punto d’incontro fra civiltà mediterranee e mitteleuropee. Una cucina tipica friulana resa attuale – e questa è l’alchimia che conquista – senza aver perso la sua origine, una cucina che ha saputo rendere nobile la semplicità della tradizione. Ma a rendere veramente unico questo luogo è il senso dell’ospitalità di Joško Sirk e della moglie Loredana, affiancati ora dalla figlia Tanja, gentilissima nel presentare agli ospiti la preparazione di un piatto in menu e nell’illustrare i luoghi da scoprire nei dintorni seguendo il confine, serpeggiando fra i colli, magari a bordo di una Vespa color “giallo Ribolla”. La Vespa è una delle tante, piccole e grandi attenzioni, con cui i Sirk accolgono gli ospiti: un amaro alle erbe dagli ingredienti segreti che viene regalato, in senso benaugurale, alle signore; le biciclette messe a disposizione per andare alla scoperta del Collio; l’organizzazione di escursioni a cavallo o di visite e degustazioni in cantina di vini Collio (come Toros, Gravner, Russiz Superiore, Schioppetto); i raffinati oggetti di artigianato selezionati per uno shopping inusuale; la prenotazione del green nel vicino campo da Golf di Capriva… «Se qualcuno è incuriosito dai nostri piatti, organizziamo piccoli corsi di cucina, e io stesso accompagno quando posso i nostri ospiti lungo le strade segrete di questa nostra bella terra di confine, dove c’è fortunatamente ancora molto da scoprire» racconta Joško. Ma il menu del ristorante? «In questo periodo invernale i protagonisti sono i sapori forti e genuini, come il salame scottato in aceto, il cervo alla brace con i mirtilli rossi e lo stinco al forno, una vera “istituzione” del ristorante». In primavera, invece, trovano grande spazio le erbe primaverili con la frittata con le erbe di campo guarnita da un ciuffetto di bruscandoli (i germogli del luppolo selvatico), gnocchetti verdi con germogli di papavero, orzotto amaro, coniglio al dragoncello e gnocchi di susine, piatto-simbolo legato alle tradizioni slave. E, come dolce, la putizza, una deliziosa focaccia al dragoncello. La Subida, Cormòns e il Friuli in un sol boccone! Written by Steve Dryden. Wine and Food Guide
We’ve come to this beautiful wine producing region located between the Giulian Alps and the Adriatic Sea as two wine prospectors searching for bottled treasures of delight. Little did we know that we’d find gold in the vineyards, wines, and souls of the local artisan people: the chefs and winemakers. In fact, I was so taken aback with the region that I raced into Trieste to stake a claim, so I can return and explore this region for a seemingly endless amount of gems and jewels in the wine and culinary cultures blended together here over many centuries. We’re here with our newest project: Vino Mundo Productions, a collaboration between myself as a wine, culinary and travel writer and the talented filmmaker, Adrián Enrique Ruiz. In addition, I’m here to trace my Austrian-Hungarian roots as a member of the Haider clan that moved to America from Vienna in the late 1890’s. My great grandfather, Michael Haider grew grapes and made wine near the famous Farmer’s Market in Los Angeles, California. As a vineyard manager and winemaker in Mexico, I’ve always wondered about my natural tendencies to indulge in farming, winemaking, along with the consumption of gourmet culinary delights, and an incurable urge for all things Italian. It only took a few minutes of exploration at my first stop in Trieste to fully understand the meaning of my Austrian-Hungarian heritage. The churches, the architecture, the promenades, the cuisine, the coffee, and of course, the great white wines from the Collio region. Trieste is about an hour train ride from the province of Gorizia and the Collio wine region, and makes a great departure locale, especially if you’re looking for gold in the hills of northeastern Italy. Trieste is a gem in itself, a very charming and classic city, very much “off” the tourist maps, a real “dynamic destination” in my opinion. It’s no wonder that James Joyce lived and worked here for twenty years without ever mentioning what a “hidden treasure” he had discovered in the city, the people and the lifestyle. Sigmund Freud lived and wrote here too, but he was somehow able to avoid a “Freudian slip” and reveal the magical world he discovered here as well. Sometimes good things are better kept to yourself, but the secret about Italy’s emerging white wines is already being discovered around the world by serious wine lovers and connoisseurs. The Collio wine region lies in the province of Gorizia and is also known as Friull Venezia Guilia or Friuli. There are six distinct regions within Collio: Gorizia to San Floriano del Collio, Mossa to Capriva del Fruli and Preval, Cormons, Dolegna del Collio and Farra d’Isonzo. These unique regions are blessed with high mineral content in the soils, many diverse habitats, hilly exposures and soulful, creative winemakers. This dynamic combination allows for wines of distinct flavor and richness. The white varietals that excel here are: Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana, Tocai Friulano, Picolit, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, and Pinot Bianco. Some reds do great here as well: Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a few local varietals such as Pignolo and Refosco. For the most part, this is premium white wine growing country, blessed with an abundance of creative and innovation winemakers with a long history of winemaking traditions.
Marco Felluga is a dynamic leader in the Collio wine region. He is and was the visionary and patriarch of this region, the one who first understood the unique significance and magic of the mineral rich terroir and the local grape varietals. His daughter Patrizia has now stepped in and inherited her father’s spirit of leadership, passion, determination, and vision. Her winery estate, Zuani, produces 40,000 bottles of superior wine from 14 hectares annually. She focuses her talent on growing limited yields of high quality fruit and making two specific wines: Zuani, a cask conditioned wine, released in the second year, and Zuani Vigne, processed in steel tanks. Both are O Collio Bianco wines of excellent quality. Her son Antonio and beautiful daughter, Caterina are well on the road to being the next generation of “super stars” from the Felluga family. The only problem I encountered in the scenic wine regions northeastern Italy was that all the wines were of premium quality, and all the winemakers are unique individuals with an amazing diversity of talent and vino. Another important element in this equation is that this remote section of Italy isn’t ALL about wine, it’s also about Italian-Austrian-Hungarian culinary delights, a wonderful blend of people, classic traditions and beautiful scenery. Having said, that, I’ll be writing many more articles during 2011 to help you understand and discover one of Italy’s best kept secrets: their phenomenal white wines. Be looking for our documentary from Vino Mundo Productions: A White Christmas in Northeastern Italy, coming soon on a DVD near you. Written by Steve Dryden http://www.winefoodguide.2ya.com/ Italian White Wines Gain Global Attention Serious international wine lovers are discovering the phenomenal wines coming from the Collio region of northeastern Italy. Despite a long history (14th century) of wine production in this beautiful region near the Slovenian border and the charming city of Trieste, it has only been in the last seven years that wines from these family-owned, artisan and boutique wineries have caught the attention of dedicated wine drinkers with an open mind and palate. White wines from this remote section of Italy were the last “closely held secret” among local Italian wine lovers until recently. So, the next time you are seeking a palate pleasing white wine with reasonable pricing for the quality, try wines from the Collio region. These wines have a distinct taste and style, pairing well with a diverse selection of culinary delights. I’ve just returned from a revealing wine tour of the Collio region where I was exposed to the best wineries and culinary establishments in that region. Italy is ALL about elegance, class, expression, passion and hospitality, thus it was no surprise that these wines and winemakers are unique in every way. For example, most of the wines from the Collio DOC have the amazing color of 14K gold. The Collio hills in Friuli Venezia Guilia provide for some of the best Italian white wines using grapes from Tocai Friulano, Malvasia Istriana, Ribolla Gialla (now called Ribolla) and Picolit. Newer varietals grown on 3,000 acres of vineyards in this region also include Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio. Most of the wines in this region are single varietal except the Collio Bianco DOC and Collio Rosso DOC wines which are usually blends (but no limited to) of three native varieties, Ribolla, Malvesia and Tocai. The soils in the Collio region are diverse, but typically very rich in minerals. Bordered on one side by the Giulian Alps and the other by the Adriatic Sea, the Collio terroir is blessed with cool nights and warm days providing character and structure to the grape flavors. Colors range from pale yellow to 14K gold, and amber colored wines. Aromas are light to full with floral notes, apple and pear flavors, bright acidity, with a pleasant finish. Of course, the flavors, texture, structure, aromas and balance vary with the varietals and blends from this region. One important factor lies in the hands of the regional winemakers who are known for their innovation, creativity and craftsmanship. Finding the great white wines from the Collio region in wine stores around San Diego can be challenging. Wine Steals stocks a limited amount in all of their San Diego locations, but their inventory changes each week, so you have to be keen in your shopping skills or order them from their wine buyer. Some of my favorite labels from the Collio DOC are: Il Carpino, Russiz Superiore (Marco Fellugo), Venica & Venica, Ca’Ronesca, Livon, Rossali, Simon, Il Carpino, Vitilia, Edi Keber and Roncho del Gnenriz. Villa Chopris, Villa Russiz,, Radikon, Rohco Blanchis, Paolo Caccese, Vitilla, and Muzic,
A Great Italian White Wine One thing is certain, the white wines from Collio pair well with a wide variety of culinary delights to include: cheese, vegetables, gnocchi, seafood, salumi (salami) or selame, prosciutto ham, pasta in cream sauces, and much more. Italian white wines would be the perfect match for turkey, ham and other holiday specialty dishes. The next time you’re feeling adventurous in your wine selection, “Go Italian” with a wonderful white wine from the Collio DOC of northern Italy. For in-depth information on Italian whites, please visit: www.winefoodguide.com
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